flat people continue their tour of asia

when last we saw the flats, all those weeks ago, they were chillaxing under the sun of thailand. they had a few more opportunities to feel the sun on their laminated flat faces when we took them out in cambodia and vietnam but once we hit japan the mitts and scarves came out to stay.

here we have the flat penners posing in front of the famous angkor wat at sunrise. the early morning was hard on auntie corina and uncle jason but since the flats had spent the previous few days sleeping in the camera bag they were raring to go.


its common in cambodia to find randomly discarded shoes and sandals. this beach on bamboo island was no exception. on this island however someone turned the broken flip flops into tree art as colourful as the flat people.

we entered into the year of the tiger with the flats in ho chi minh city, vietnam. flat jane and flat owen chose this paper tiger as their favourite.


everyone was excited to leave the heat behind for a blissfully cool week in tokyo, japan! flat hannah, flat ellie and flat sasha had to sneak behind the guards for this photo op at the imperial palace.

flat jane and flat owen played it safe and took their photo outside the gate of the imperial palace.

the flats enjoyed a traditional japanese tea ceremony in this tea house near shimizu, japan.


it was too cold to swim under this waterfall but the flat petroffs were lucky to see a rainbow...but not lucky enough to find the pot of gold.


the gardens in tokyo were beautifully manicured and peaceful places to sit and rest after walking through the bustling streets of tokyo. many japanese people had their photos taken under this umbrella and so the flat penners did too. well, you know, when in tokyo do as the tokyo-ers do...

sayonara,

flat penners & flat petroffs

Angkor Wat the 8th wonder

Angkor Wat sometimes called the 8th wonder of the world. A claim to fame for wonders as diverse as: The Grand Canyon, Giants Causeway, The Taj Mahal, Machu Picchu, The Moai statues of Easter Island, The Palm Island in Dubai, The Sydney Opera House and Andre the Giant (an old school wrestler) to name but a few. Having actually made it to some of these so called 8th wonders, and undoubtedly been impressed, I can say without a doubt Angkor lives up to the hype. It is after all the largest religious building in the world, and an UNESCO world heritage site! My word can it get any better?

Main entrance at Angkor Wat

After arriving at Siem Reap and surviving the onslaught of tuk tuk drivers we are whisked off to our guest house after securing our driver for a tour of the temples. Day one: After a little debate as to what it is we should see first we default to the wisdom of Mr. Lee our driver. We start with the heavy hitters... Angkor Wat, what can I say that hasn't all ready been said. Awesome, huge, marvelous... all accurate descriptions but used too often (for more info on Angkor click the link). Built in the Hindu tradition as a model of Mt. Meru it was later converted into a Buddhist shrine. The scale of the Wat could have you exploring it for days.

One of the twin libraries of Angkor Wat

The fearsome and ever present Hora

After clamouring around the grounds for a bit we head into the temple and check out the relief carvings and the inner grounds. Unfortunately the actual shrine (which is smaller than most living rooms) was closed, but the steep stairs up and oppressive heat may have made the humble shrine a bit of a let down when compared to the grandiose surroundings.

Relief carvings in Angkor Wat

After having our fill of Angkor Wat it was time to move on to the ancient city of Angkor Thom, home to some mighty impressive temples in it's own right. We enter the walled city through the south gate and paused to marvel at it and bridge that lead us into the city. The city has 5 gates all together. All gates have similar bridges with gods holding Horas and the face of Jayavarman VII atop the gate repeated in quadruple. A sight that, to this day, fills people with fear and respect.

One of the gods holding the body of the Hora

Cyclists pass through south gate under the watchful eye of Jayavarman VII

Next up... Bayon who's 200 plus carvings of the face of the Buddha of compassion may make you feel like you are being watched. An impressive sight, it is almost impossible not to catch a face in your photos. But who am I kidding, this is what you have come here to photograph! It is every bit as magnificent as Angkor Wat and a testament to the skills of the Khmer sculptors. It is generally believed that the face of the Buddha is a copy of the king's Jayavarman VII face. (not at all conceded!) Why not, after all he did consider himself a god-king.

Bayon's Buddha of compassion.

Who's that watching over my shoulder 216 times

Next it was off to what is called the largest jig-saw puzzle in the world, Baphuon. This temple was disassembled before Cambodia was plunged deep into chaos during the 70's. During which the records for re-assembling were destroyed. The back wall has an enormous reclining Buddha a mere 9 metres high by 70 M long, adjacent to the Royal palace area where we headed next.

Can you see the reclining Buddha?

While in the royal palace area I spot a monkey making it's way toward a group of us, along a wall. The monkey scampered down and is fed and attended to by several tourists. Not content, the monkey spots a young Cambodian girl with a bag full of (what we assume is) milk. A bound, a grab and snatch, and a bound away and the monkey steals the drink from the little girl . Completely shocked and terrified, it takes some time for her mom to calm her down. Unaffected the monkey attempts to drink the beverage. Nothing sweeter than milk stolen from the hands of a child! Cheeky monkey! However, you are warned that food can be targeted by monkeys while touring the temples of Angkor. You have been warned.

Pre-monkey, with bag of milk

Post-monkey terror syndrome or (PMTS)

Naughty little monkey!

Day two involved a 5:30 A.M. wake up call to witness the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We arrive far enough before the sun does but not nearly early enough to beat the crowds. We are directed to the "best area" to see and capture the sun rise. We crowd in with hundreds of others to wait the arrival of the sun. Granted the lotus pond does have a nice aesthetic but we tire of the crowd and skip over to the other pond sans lotus for our sunrise photo opp. No need to clamor for space here, we are able to have just us and the Wat in the frame. Sometimes it pays to breakaway from the shot everyone has to have. I mean, really who misses the pink lotus blossoms in the pond?

Angkor Way at sunrise

Contemplative Jason

As we head back ready for breakfast we pause at the stillness of the Wat and the calm of the moat around it. We are not alone in enjoying the peaceful setting. A Buddhist monk has plunked himself down on the banks of the moat and stares meditatively towards the Wat. We did continue our tour of the temples that day but moments like that seem to resonate.

Angkor Wat Moat

Monk at Angkor Wat

Day three... abbreviated. Up until now we had completely obliged our tuk tuk driver and went where he suggested. But at 40 minutes one way on a bumpy dirt road and with our aging and aching backs we decided not to go to Banteay Srey. Instead we headed directly to the Rolus Group temples. These are pre-Angkor era and because of their age they are in a greater state of ruin. But this still seemed like a great way to end our tour of the temples of Angkor.

Corina with Rolus Group elephant sculpture

Begun in 802 until 1431, the temples of Angkor have to some extent been left to the jungle. Not even a king as great and powerful as Jayavarman VII can keep the jungle at bay for all of time. It is not uncommon to see massive trees sprouting from temple walls like those of Preah Khan and the ever popular and impressive Ta Prohm. So stunning, they have been used in films such a Tomb Raider. It is both sad and satisfying that these once great temples are being returned to the earth they were carved from. But time marches on with a fervour and ruthlessness far greater than any army, Khmer or otherwise.

Preah Khan

Is it safe to say that there is no other reason to go to Cambodia than to see Angkor Wat? Well that's not true. We will always remember the people and especially the kids of Cambodia. We must not forget the turmoil they were put through under Pol Pot. This is the the most important thing to take away from Cambodia. But the most impressive (anywhere to date) thing to take away is Angkor. To come to Cambodia and not see it wild be fool-hearty. No doubt it will deliver as the 8th wonder of the world (with apologies to Andre the giant as I don't want to anger him).

Jason

heartbreakers

we've been in cambodia for little more than a week and already the kids have captured my heart. they are a scruffy, beautiful, pesky, and dusty bunch and they know how to charm you. they've charmed us out of money, food, and a pen. we have read the guidebooks that warn you only to support businesses that help kids (which we have done) and not to give in to their begging but...really...could you say no to this face?


this little girl saw our bag of pineapple scraps and mango and made a beeline for jay. we'd already eaten most of the pineapple as we walked through the temples of angkor but she put out her hand and said, "food"?

this boy was selling books outside a temple and when we said no to the books he challenged me to a game of tic tac toe. as we were playing he said,"ïf i win you give me money". for some reason i never asked what i would get if i won but it was a moot point.


this blue dog and his friend just kinda moped around as we walked through a temple. they didn't ask us for anything but after i took is picture i gave him 1000 riels (25 cents).


just hanging around a temple with his sister, this boy posed for me and another tourist.

the boy on the front of the boat would leap onto the tourist boats and sell water and pop and then leap back onto his boat as the father trolled alongside.

we went on a boat tour of tonle sap near siem reap as suggested by our tuk tuk driver. there is a floating village on the lake and many tourists take tours around with a few stops at local businesses along the way. when i read about it online the price of a shared boat ride was $6 per person. when we arrived at the docks we were told the price was $20 per person and that we would have our own boat. jay and i had already spent $15 on the tuk tuk driver and spent the morning at angkor wat so another $40 was out of our budget. we turned away to leave and the tour guy followed us back to our tuk tuk. our driver explained that the tour would support the local people and gave them jobs. the tour guy dropped the price to $30 all the while making sure we knew that every other tourist paid the full fare and ribbing us about spending money in other countries but not cambodia. jay was still resistant but i said...we're only in cambodia once...so we went.

it was interesting to see the village but it became disturbing when it became apparent that children were put on display to entertain the tourists. this little girl is waving a snake at us and asking for food or money. when i took the photo i didn't think much of it but when we were on the floating souvenir store and looked down at another boat there was another snake and child combo. this time the mother was putting the snake's head into the child's mouth.

i'm sure not all the kids we see are coerced into putting on shows and begging from the tourists. there is evidence of loving parents and families in cambodia. but when you are bombarded with children begging from you at every opportunity it is difficult to see past that. i see the desperation in their eyes and my heart breaks.

chum riep leah,

corina